Sunday, November 29, 2015

Burda Challenge November - 11-2015 #112

Here’s my November Burda and it’s on time too. Yes, I do rock. I decided to make the woven top with shoulder zipper detail. I made it out of wool flannel. Yes, I know wool against the skin, ewww. Except, I love that feeling. It’s the feeling of being warm. I’m constantly cold so wool is my friend.
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I had to really, really, really lighten these so you can see any detail. First a word of warning, this top is hard to get on. Like pull, tug, pull, pull, pull, pull. I could have made the seam allowances smaller maybe but I think the main problem is the armholes. I think it would be much better if my fabric had even a hint of stretch. It doesn’t. I can’t wear a regular bra with it. I’m wearing a sports bra that kind of flattens my cheat. I think the armholes are also too low for such a fitted shirt. On this picture, it almost looks like the shoulder also also just a titch too wide.
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It does fit well as long as I just stand around, look awesome, and don’t reach for things.  I’m exaggerating a bit. Not about the sports bra, mind you. I really did have to put on a sports bra. But I wore this for several hours this weekend and there were only a few things I struggled to do.
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The back fit is nice. I even tried a swayback adjustment. I know, right? How many years did that take me? I took it in about a 1/2” along that CB seam and the fit is almost perfect. I did add my standard 1” about the bust (I always leave the armholes alone).
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See how tight it gets? If I pull up from the shoulder and snug up the armhole, it’s much more comfortable.
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And I have the perma-cowl below my neck. My neck thrusts forward a bit so this is probably a result of that. Most of the time, my tops don’t go up this high, and if they do, they are in a knit.
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The darts end in the right spot, but you can see a little fold at the armpit/bust.
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I was super excited about this pattern because of the interesting darts, simplicity, and pop of color at the neck. I’m disappointed that it’s too tight. I still like it, I’m just not sure how often I’ll be reaching for it. I’m worried I’ll pop an armpit seam at work.
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I love the zipper/ribbon detail. Burda recommended 1” grosgrain ribbon. Mine is 7/8” I think thinner might work better with this area of the shirt. You can see on my pictures that the ribbon makes the neck area really stiff.
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I hand sewed (yes! me!!) the hems and neck facing.
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A little disappointing but it would rock in a stretch woven. With a bit of armhole fiddling. I’m working on an Ottobre dress I think you guys will like.

Has anyone else tried this pattern? I still think it has lots of possibilities. I loved the dress variation in the magazine.