Burda Challenge–Burda 05-2015 #101

First off, can I just say, “Phweeeeeeewwwwwwwwwwww.” This coat took a loooong time.

Big, deep breathe.

Okay, now then. This is my Burda Challenge item for May. I made the frilly ruffle coat (05-2015 #101) because I needed it. Like really, I needed it. It is my precious. No, for real, I’m not a ruffle girl at all. Ever. But I needed this coat when I saw it in Burda. And not just the pattern, the exact coat. I found this Mood fabric is this a match for the original coat.

 

It’s an off-white, pale blue tweed. I interfaced the whole thing. Let me say that again. The. Whole. Thing. That took forever. The tweed was nice, but I needed to be a bit beefier.

 

Not only is the ginormous collar gathered, but it is pleated along the back. There are six pleats that go across the back. This is what gives it such body.

 

This is probably more of an “up-do coat” since your hair and collar would be fighting all the time. I made my normal Burda size of 34. I added an inch to the bodice because I have a long torso. The waist seam hits me right where it should. This coat has in-seam pockets and they are large. I love them.

 

Look at that collar! It’s huge! It’s going to eat my face!!!!! 

 

I bought this silky lining at JoAnn’s. I think it’s really a great color for this coat.

 

I used five large sew-in snaps. Instead of hand-sewing them, I put them on by machine. My Necchi was juuuuust wide enough if I was very careful. I used Gutterman upholstery thread for these snaps and the understitching.

 

Looking back, I wish I would have made this in a rich turquoise. My skin usually looks better with dark jewel tones.

 

I know you can’t see it well, but there is a back V at center back at the bottom. I totally nailed the V.

 

Isn’t the tweed pretty? It reminds me of Easter.

 

Burda tells you to put the collar and coat together and then topstitch it. Don’t. I did that and it looked crappy. Instead, do the normal clipping, grading, and understitching that you would normally do.

 

Here’s the snaps from the right side. I think the starburst pattern looks cool.

 

Look at the collar. It’s about the stand up and walk away.

 

I added 1/2” shoulder pads to help support the weight of the collar and coat.

 

Frilly, ruffle sleeves.  Don’t you love them???

 

Do you love it???? I think I do!!! Which is good because it took me hours to make. Aren’t those the best things though?

I’m going to make some very not-hard things in the coming days. Phew.

Burda 5/2015 #101 Ruffle Coat

I was smitten by this coat the first time I saw it in the May BurdaStyle. I’ve started on it. I even did a muslin of the top of the coat (which I NEVER do!). It looks good so far. Tomorrow I’m going to start cutting into my scrumptious fabric. (Ruffles on the wrist, I’m in love!! And I don’t even like ruffles. Something is wrong with me!)

 

Here’s the line drawing. The buttons are only for looks. There are five sew-in buttons that hook it together.

 

I may have liked it enough that I bought fabric that is almost exactly the same as the Burda garment. This from Mood Fabrics and it’s to. die. for. OMG. It is slightly more green in real life (although your monitor probably does not look like mine.

 

Questions for you jacket makers.

• The giant ruffle collar calls for “fine tulle” to be placed between the two layers. I assume this is to help it be a bit stiffer so the collar doesn’t collapse. The only kind I’ve ever seen is the floppy stuff at JoAnn’s. Would that work? Could I just interface it instead? I’ve never seen something call for tulle for support.
• Can I make my own shoulder pads? I don’t want some giant monstrosities. Where should I look for information on that?

 

Actually, no. I will cut into my lining fabric tomorrow. I always do the lining before the jacket. I learned that from Anne.