Burda 02-2011 #107 Skirt

Here’s the newest project finally finished.  It took forever but not because it was difficult. On the contrary, this skirt was incredibly easy and the fit is fantastic with no modifications. I made a 34 with no changes to the sizing. I may add belt loops but then again, I might not. The only reason I would add them is to make the belt in back the same distance down the skirt. If you add belt loops though, it looks funny if you don’t have a belt on. I used the leftovers from this dress. It’s a silk/wool blend suiting.

 

 

The inside is lined with a stretch silk from ThaiSilks.com I bought a while ago. There is no slit but it’s pretty easy to walk in.

 

 

I used the Threads tip about adding elastic to the waistband to make sure it stays snug against the body. This elastic adds quite a bit of bulk but I love the idea especially in something this high. Usually these high-waisted things kill me by lunch but this is nice because it has some give. The only problem is that the elastic wants to flip to the outside. I fixed this by tacking it from the inside to the fashion fabric (going through the lining). It does create a dimple from the RS but only when it’s not on the body.
 

 

 

You can see from the outside, off the body, that it looks like it’s puckered and not ironed. On the body though, it looks nice and the top edge stays against me but isn’t tight. I’ll definitely use this technique again even though it’s not the prettiest finish on the inside. I may try to sandwich the elastic between the lining and fashion fabric next time. 

Chanel Jacket 4 - Trim

I am slowly working on my Chanel-style jacket. I have it cut out and partially put together. I want to add the trim before I sew the sleeves together. I think want something black like this because the fabric itself is so loud. There are two problems, maybe. One, how in the heck am I going to get nice sharp corners for the edges of this faux-sleeve vent and pocket flaps. Two, does this ribbon look cheap? I think it's polyester.

Here you can see that I've pressed it down. I would then hand-stitch the trim to the sleeve vents, pocket flaps, and around the jacket.

Here's a close-up. It's going to be very difficult to make sure these are perfectly symmetrical.

I plan to go to Seams Like Home, the local fabric boutique this weekend and check out what they have. I'm just concerned that it's going to be very hard to make corners with anything more substantial than ribbon.

Hello, Moron. BWOF 01-2009 #125

So, who's the moron that cut this top on the cross grain? Oh, yeah, that would be me. Fortunately this has 4-way stretch so it still stretches around my body. What a doofus. Here's the full review at PatternReview.com.

This is the first Hawaii-inspired top. It is #125 from January 2009 BWOF. It's the sewing course so it's easy-peasy.


It's got cute gathered sleeves that aren't toooo poofy.

You can tell I need a swayback adjustment. I refuse to cut a center seam on most knit tops and I think that is really what I need.

Cute snaps? Like them? I put them in with my snap press. You guys need one.

Here's the question of the day. I did my shoulder to bust tuck like I normally do but I did the sleeve tuck differently. To reduce the sleeve, I matched it along the sleeve seams and drew a line that matched where I normally shortened the front and back. I continued that line (and tuck) on the sleeve. I did that on the front and the back. What do you guys think? The pink is where I put the tucks. (click on the photos to see both front and back)

This is what I normally do.

Burda 07-2008-116 Empire Top

You can tell that I should have done an SBA on this top. It is pretty baggy up on the top.

Perfect shoulder fit! And these sleeves are not restrictive. I was worried after reading Christina's post about the other BWOF top but this one is fine.


I chose to line the inside rather than mess with facings and binding the armholes. Make two bodices, hem the sleeves, attach them to the fashion fabric, sew neck edges right sides together, sew arm edges together (make sure sleeves are the correct way when you do this), turn right sides out and then sew side seams in one continuous loop. Grade, clip, press, press, press, and move on.


There are two sets of drawstrings. One goes in the right, across the front and back and outside the right side. The other drawstring goes in the left, around the body, and back out the left.


Super cute cottom eyelet lawn from my favorite fabric boutique. It used to be Three Sisters but it merged with another store and they are both called Seams Like Home now.

This is the review from PatternReview.com:

Pattern Description: Nothing looks so fresh in summer as a crisp white blouse! Our trendy, tunic-styled version sports a typical empire waist with drawstrings dangling at the sides.

Sizing: 34-44. I made a size 36.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes, it looks like both the line drawing and the model photo. Well, mostly. I don't have a huge white hat but yes very similar.

Were the instructions easy to follow? I didn't look at them much. I had to change the order of construction because I chose to line the bodice rather than use facings and bias arm finish. What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?It is a really easy top to make, even with the lining. In fact lining it probably made it easier than messing with armhole binding and those back facing I can never get to fit perfectly. The top is cute but pretty trendy with the empire waist so it probably won't last more than this season. No dislikes; it went together perfectly.

Fabric Used: This cute Robery Kaufmann cotton eyelet from my local fabric boutique. They have good stuff but just not a lot of variety. I found Liberty fabric there and was amazed. It was quite spendy but you know, freight to Alaska makes everything expensive.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: I did my usual 1/2" shoulder to bust tuck. I made my ties smaller because I have a bias-tape maker that takes strips that are 1" instead of 1.5". The casings that you create with the 3/4" seam allowances are not that big. I'm not sure that thicker drawstrings would have worked. I think you either need to increase the SA a bit or make your drawstrings thin like I did. There are two drawstrings; one that goes around and ends in the right side and one that ends in the left side. Here is a picture so you can see what I mean.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I probably won't sew it again but I really like it. I word to ya'll with "girls". This top is very low and very wide. Seeing as I have no "girls" to speak of, nothing is going to fall out but without a camisole my bra was pretty visible. If I made this again, I would raise the neckline by about an inch. I usually do that with BWOF but I guess I forgot. You can see in this picture of the front that the bodice is a bit baggy.

Conclusion: Cute and very easy.

Kwik Sew 3576 - Sheath Dress

This is my, "It fits! It fits!" look. Pretty smug huh? You can't see the darts and fit but it is great. I love the boatneck and the fit. No sheath dress has ever fit me like this before. I'll have to transfer these darts to everything I make.

Here's the back, it's got cute details so it is too bad it is black because you can't see anything.

The front details. It should have a belt buckle. I'll need to look for one.

My "oops-seam" I think it turned out okay though.

With or without a shirt. This baby has lots of potential.

Here's the PR review:
Pattern Description: Misses' fitted sleeveless dresses have bust darts, waist darts, and center back zipper. Neckline and armholes are finished with facings. View A has boat neckline, patch pockets with belt loops on front, back belt loops, shaped belt at hip with buckle, and topstitching detail. Pockets and belt loops are lined. View B has wide V-neckline. Dresses can be worn with or without a shirt. I made view A with all the belt and details.

Pattern Sizing: XS-S-M-L-XL. I made the XS.Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?Yes, although mine has an extra seam in the chest area. I, um, forgot to make my normal shortern-by-1/2" from shoulder to bust alteration. Whoops. I had already cut out the fabric when I realized it. So, I tried to make it look like I meant to do it. I topstitched it and I don't think it looks bad.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes, very. I did something totally different for the zipper and I lined it. I tried to follow this tutorial from Marji's review and I ended up ripping out the zipper, the back of the dress and the side seams at least one time each. I decided while I was doing this that I will make my own tutorial for lining a sheath dress when I make this again. That way, morons like me, can see step by step how you do it. What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?Likes: I LOVE THAT IT IS A SHEATH DRESS AND IT FITS!!!! I have never had one fit well before. This is kind of a A-line version but the bodice fits me so well. Here is the front and back. I know it is hard to see since it is black. I will totally make this more times in dressier fabrics. I also like the belt/loops/pocket detail. I tried to overexposed these so you can see the details. (As an aside, how in the heck do you make perfectly square points on things? My belt loops and pocket would look much better if they were more pointy on the ends.) I am supposed to have a belt buckle but I didn't have one so the silver thing is a pin holding the belt together.Dislikes: None.

Fabric Used: I used a 100% cotton pique fabric from Three Sisters Fabric Boutique. It has no lycra but lots of bias stretch. It was sort of a problem when I was topstitching the zipper. I will interface that area next time. The lining was from JoAnn's. I don't know what brand but it is not the cheapy (or not AS cheapy) as some of them. It feels great on.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: I made the 1/2" shortening alteration (after I cut the fabric, tee hee). I used smaller seam allowances for the hip area. The finished garment measurements for the hip area was 36" which is my exact measurement. I just used a smaller SA and it fits fine in the hip area. I totally changed the lining/zipper application. It turned out very nice inside. This pattern comes with facings and I used the pattern as the lining pattern. Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?Oh, yes. I have been looking for a sheath-style dress that would fit me and this one is great. I will sew it again and again. I am thinking it will be very easy to make it more pencil-skirt-ish and add a pleat for the walking pleat. Of course, I am semi-pearish and maybe this A-line version is a better shape for me. I love the boatneck of this pattern too. You can also wear it alone with no shirt underneath.

Conclusion: Super cute and easy. If you are looking for a sheath pattern this one may be the one that fits you.

Dilemma Solved!

So I was having a hard time figuring out exactly what to do with the Jalie SWAP top. I ended endging it with white knit from Three Sisters'. It worked great. Here is the finished top. Now I can move on to the bottoms. I'll leave the Jalie t-shirt for a quick afternoon project. I want to wait on the button-down top until the woven shirt contest. That will help me stay motivated on that one. I juat hate cutting into my really nice wool and maybe messing it up. BUT, I have a muslin, I have a real RTW skirt that has the same dimensions. I just have to convince myself that I can do it. After this SWAP contest I am going to raise my sewing status to Intermediate.