Papercut Patterns - Otsu Jeans

I decided the other day that I was up for a challenge and needed more jeans. I was torn between the Papercut Patterns, Otsu jeans and the Named Patterns, Jamie Jeans. In the end, after looking at reviews and other people's jeans, I went with the Jamie Jeans. I love the style lines and thought the seam in the back was going to be flattering.

I made a knee-length muslin just because I'm wary of all crotch curves that aren't Jalie or Burda. The front rise was a little long, so I pinched out about 1/2" across the front and then took about 1/2" from the same area on the back going to nothing at center back. Other than that small adjustment, they actually fit pretty well which shocked me. Overall, I think the front looks pretty good and I'm happy with them. 

The back needs work. I've always had an issue with pants bunching up under my butt between my butt and knees. I think it has to do with my thighs that are pretty muscular in the front and it pulls the fabric forward. I think these pants, in particular, have two issues for me. First, they are tight in the calves (and I have tiny calves so that's a first for me) and that's keeping them from sliding down my leg like they should. Second, there is too much fabric under the butt. Since these pants are split down the back, that problem should be easy to adjust. I plan to cut from the center to the side seam and overlap by about an inch. I think I'll make two different slashes and overlap them each 1/2". I think putting more width in the calves and removing that inch in the glutes should fix most of this. I lightened a few of the pictures so you can see the wrinkles better. 

Here you can see that the calves are tight and the wrinkles under the butt. I think (I'm hoping!!!) that my adjustments will work out. 

Overall, though, I think they are really not bad. I really like the design lines and the fit isn't half bad. I plan to make another pair with these changes. What do you guys think??  

And remember, there is a lot more content on IG. I've started using that for little things and only posting here for long explanations (like these jeans!). Here's an example. :) 

New Jalie Julia. This is a floral DBP and black FOE. I used clear elastic in the straps for a little more oomph. So comfy. . #jalielife #jaliejulia #jalie3886 @jalie_patterns #isewmyownclothes

A post shared by Dawn (@two_on_two_off) on Jun 20, 2018 at 4:59pm PDT

End of the Year Wrap-Up

I enjoy graphs (I’m a nerd like that). I made 78 garments this year and used a variety of pattern companies. No surprise to me is that I used Jalie and Burda magazine more than any other company. I used zero McButtKwikOgues and instead tried a few new (to me) companies. I did branch out this year and make a lot more kid’s clothing. I tallied up 11 Jalie leotards. Eleven. That’s a lot of leotards. I have several stand out garments that I love and a few that I don’t. Overall, I think it’s been a good sewing year. Some highlights: I won the Pattern Review Sewing Bee contest (sqqqquuueeeeeeeeeeee!!!!!!), I successfully completed my Burda Challenge, I made a lot more clothes for my runner-girls, and I have come a long way in construction (in my opinion). Good sewing year indeed.  

Burda Challenge (each picture is linked to the blog post about the garment):

Overall, I’m really happy with my garments this year. I plan to continue on with the Burda Challenge and make at least one thing out of the current Burda magazine.

Papercut Patterns - Ooh La Leggings

I really needed a quick knit project after two topstitching-intensive wool projects. Also, it’s getting chilly-willy outside. The mornings when I run are in the low 30s right now. Brrrrrrr . . . . I have this wool/nylon doubleknit that is warm, cozy, thick, and stretchy. I figured it would make great running pants. I have not taken them for a test drive yet. I ran about eight miles this morning with some lady friends, but that was before these were done. I’ll run with them tomorrow and let you know. So far though, I’m loving them. I’m wishing I would have added some black piping to the front and back seam to show off the fun seaming details. Has anyone used this type of reflective piping? Do you like it? Or, does anyone know where you can buy reflective knit fabric? I’m on the hunt.

 

Here’s the line drawing again. Obviously this time I made the full-length version. My other version is the 3/4 length.

 

I added reflective trim to these and, apparently, I’m very excited about it. Some of these pictures are taken with a flash to emphasize the reflective trim and because it’s a cold, dark day outside.

 

Here’s the back. I didn’t change anything on the pattern this time around. Last time I made them, they could have been a little tighter. The double knit doesn’t have quite as much stretch as the nylon I used last time. I left the pattern the same and it seems to fit better. I didn’t topstitch everything like last time, but maybe that would have helped emphasize the seaming.

 

Oh wait, I did change one thing. I used 1” elastic this time instead of 3/4”. Also I lowered the CF a half inch and it’s perfect now. I guess I didn’t take a picture of the front with my top up. Oops. I like the back high like this. There is nothing I hate more than my shirt puffing out and cold air getting on my lower back.

 

I angled the reflective trim because a) I like the look of it, and b) it is non-stretch and I figured I didn’t want it to be completely vertical since it would stop the stretch in that area. 

 

Here they are flat. The green/gray is the wool/nylon double knit and the black is the Nike fabric from last year. This Nike fabric has an almost-terry cloth finish on the inside.

 

Here are my reflective stripes. I’m almost always running the dark, so these will be helpful.

 

I did add small pockets the back. I basically just sewed a rectangle (with a straight stitch) with a stretchy top (zig-zag stitch) and attached it at two points. I attach it like this so the pocket can still stretch around my body. That helps keep the top closed.

 

It’s big enough for my iPhone in one pocket and two Gus in the other pocket. And a shout out to Salted Caramel, the best flavor of Gu out there.

 

I used the thinnest ribbon that is on the bottom. I ironed it on and then also stitched the two edges with black thread. These babies aren’t going anywhere.

 

I really and truly am searching for some reflective fabric. I’m loving all the ones on this page, but I can’t figure out if they sell to individuals or large companies. I can’t find any fabric stores that sell it either. Here is another company that sells some cool reflective fabric. However, I think they only sell it by really, really large quantities.

Papercut Patterns - Ooh La Leggings

These are the Ooh La Legging from Papercut patterns. I can’t tell you how much I love these! This is a new-to-me company, but I’ve seen oodles of reviews and specifically, reviews of these tights. The reviews from Melissa and Kathy are the ones that really pushed me over the edge. I knew I needed some

They come in full-length, 3/4 length, and knee length. I made the 3/4 length for my first pair. Next, I’ll be making the full length pair.

 

This is after my 10 mile run this morning. They passed the test. Although, they do need pockets. I’ll put those in this week. You need places to stick your goo, car keys, etc. Strangely enough, I have a Nike Dri-Fit top (bought, not made) and a pair of running socks that perfectly match the pants.

 

This is during our family bike ride later in the day. What’s fun about the print is that they match everything. I can always use more fun running pants in my life.

 

I love the back part. I was worried on a bike that the butt seam might rub when I was sitting on the bike seat, but I never even thought about it or felt it.

 

I made the size XS, but I probably could have made the XXS. The waist and hips have plenty of room. It depends a lot on your fabric. I can see making these in lots of different fabrics.

 

I love how the side view changes dramatically when you move your legs.

 

Again with the fun back.This is Nike Dri-Fit solid knit mixed with a swim suit nylon spandex print. I love how springy and bright they are.

 

This is the front. There is a front and back hip piece. The legs are made out of three pieces. A side piece (dark blue in mine), and a front and back panel (both are the bright print in mine). I’ll make these again and play with the color blocking, although I’m loving how these turned out.

They tell you to topstitch the hip area, but I decided to go all the way down the leg. That’s the only change I made on these. It’s a great pattern! You’ll be seeing more of this in the future.

 

Next up: I have a great jacket to show you, I just have to photograph it. I get dressed in the morning, go to work, change at work into my running clothing, and coach running. When I get home, there is no way I’m changing again to take pictures. Oy, I’ll get it done one of these days! My jacket had been done for over a week!