Here is one of these cuffs. When I do the full review, I'll show you the other side (which is horrible).
Monday, December 29, 2008
Burda 09-2008 Blouse with Open Darts
This shirt looks horrible in these pictures. The shoulder/arm area is a mess. What other alterations would you suggest for me? I sew a lot of knit things but would like to sew more fitted woven jackets and things. I already do a shoulder to bust tuck of about a 1/2". That's usually the only thing I do. The sleeves really aren't all that bad but then again, pictures don't lie. It looks like there are puckers all over but there really are not. I swear. My shoulders really look like they are sloping down too, eh? This is BWOF 09-2008 #115. I am trying to figure out which kind of buttons to use. But, now I'm perplexed about the shoulders. I'll try a good pressing but the chest area also looks like it is all wrong now too. Dang it! This is really nice fabric too that my husband bought me. These are the only buttons in my stash that sort of work. They are a smokey gray but I think they are a bit too bit for this top. What do you guys think? The other problem with these buttons is that I don't have any more and I need two smaller ones for the cuffs.
Here is one of these cuffs. When I do the full review, I'll show you the other side (which is horrible).
Here is one of these cuffs. When I do the full review, I'll show you the other side (which is horrible).
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12 comments:
I don't know, can you move the aleeve cap up into the shoulder? I have tried ONE fitted blouse and gave up, so I am not much help.
Dawn, If I were you I'd double-check the pattern pieces to see if you possibly put the sleeves in the wrong armholes. Usually sleeve plackets close the other way...
One other thing -- does the shoulder seam extend off the end of your shoulder? It looks a bit too long.
If you end up removing the sleeves and re-inserting them, you might try sewing your shoulder seams with a bit more slope...
Elaine
Oh, one other thing. You said you do a shoulder to bust tuck in the front. I assume this is a quick/dirty SBA? Do you also remove the tuck amount from the front of the sleeve?
2 things:
1. The bust darts are opening at the bust point, rather that under it. Maybe end those darts lower?
2. IMHO the buttons are a little distracting. I'd try something smaller and lighter in color.
This one was on my "to do" list, so I'm bummed to see it not working for you. I hope you can make it work, and not lose the fabric to a wadder.
My 2 cents, please season my observations with your own grain of salt. I am used to working with knits, not wovens. And you have a petite body type, very different from my own. My first thought is that the blouse looks too big.
I pulled out my copy of BWOF 9/08 and I see that they made it into different types of fabric: the blue taffeta version doesn't drape, so it appears more structured (more like a jacket/blazer) and the beige stretch satin appears more fitted/closer to the body (more like a blouse). Your fabric seems closer to the beige stretch satin. In the magazine, I like how the darts release just below the bust (in the beige version). I think that to achieve the same effect, you need to go snugger (more closely following your body shape) in the waist/bust. As a test, can you clip/pinch in the side seams, or the back darts to make it smaller, more closely fitting? If this were a muslin, I would also take in the side seams closer to the bust (e.g. just use a basting stitch about 1/4 ~ 1/2 inch from the current stitch line, along along the side seam from the waist to the the elbow, just to see how it changes the look).
Dawn,it does appear that the pattern may be to large, as well as perhaps the sleeves may be in the wrong armholes, (plackets backwards) and the shoulder length is too long. It also looks as if you tried to adjust the fullness in the body by making the darts wider and longer than the design required. I notice that you use many patterns, and some of them fit quite well. When you have a basic pattern that fits you, you can always used that same pattern for a good fit on the one you are working on. Find one of those patterns and compare it to the blouse pattern by laying it on top of it. Unless the design is very different, you should be able to make the adjustment. Measure your shoulder length, (base of your neck to the top of you arm. Better yet, have someone take all your measurements for you for accuracy. Compare those measurements to your pattern plus ease allowance. Also, do make a sample garment when in doubt. Muslim is the best, but if you have large enough remnants, use them. All you want is a good fit. Construction comes with taking your time, and not being in such a hurry to finish a garment. I learned to take it apart a long time ago. If it does not look right, or fit right, I will take it apart and do it over. Yes it is more work, but it is worth it. You do not have a fear of trying new fabrics, or challenging designs, so why not take the time to perfect your skills.
Your shoulders are narrower than the Burda pattern. I think if you shortened the shoulder seam - hard to say by how much but could be as much as 1" - you would be much happier. The shoulder cap is falling off your shoulder and this makes the whole blouse look schlumpy (that's the technical term). You could try cutting in just the armscye, which would make it bigger. This could be good for your sleeve cap, which looks like it has too much ease. I also would go for lighter coloured buttons.
I agree with Kristine--
if the bust darts were lowered it might work better--the fabric looks nice and I would want to selvage too! Also, if you could find a button the same color. It would blend a bit better
I think that the shoulders are too wide and could be shortened. The bust darts also seem too high. The look a little overwhelming. I love the color of the shirt. Some matching or smaller buttons would show off the beautiful color instead of competing with it. You are going to end up with a beautiful blouse when you get all the bugs worked out!
I'm a fan of the top-down approach. Work on those shoulders first! I'm guessing narrow the shoulders by an inch. When I do this, I also have to heighten the sleeve cap but not everyone has to do this. You might be able to get away with just narrowing the sleeves.
From the chest down, it just looks like too much fabric in the front. I don't feel qualified to comment on that since I'm a member of the FBA, not SBA club which might be needed. Diffferent things to look for.
I'd say narrow the shoulders and see where you are at that point.
It's late...in my previous post I meant you might be able to get away with just narrowing the sleeves, I meant "narrowing the shoulders".
FYI--Patricia just posted an entry on her blog on this blouse. (skansewer.blogspot.com/2009/01/silk-blouse.html ) that you may want to look at. I want to add to my original observation that yes, when you alter the pattern), you should start with the shoulder area: I'm guessing that is the best place to start because it is a complicated area involving collars, shoulders, and armholes (kinda like if you are doing an FBA, you choose the shirt size by the upper bust measurement). Regarding easing in sleeves--I'm horrible at it, but Ann of Gorgeous Things posted a tutorial that illustrates how she eases them in. Lots of pins are involved. :) My two cents--and Stay warm! 20 below zero? I can't even imagine......
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