Tuesday, September 1, 2009

Chanel Jacket 2 - Cap'n, we have arms . . .

I used up all of my muslin fabric so I'm using this flowered khaki. It's not ideal because it is a stretch twill but it'll do. One thing you need to know if you decide to make this jacket is the arms are skinny. And that's coming from a person with skinny arms. They aren't tight but they ain't loose either. They are fine at the shoulder but they taper pretty steeply from the elbow to wrist.


That back fold is still there and it looks worse than before. I'll play with that tomorrow night.


I accidently cut the sleeve inside out. This is why I love muslins. I don't really have to pay attention. This was the easiest pair of sleeves ever to set.


The armholes are a little low but I'm not sure if I'll raise them. They aren't bad.


Back with my arms folded in front of me.


Boy, is that a smug face or what??!? I feel good about this jacket though because it has gone so smoothly and the fit is pretty good straight out of the envelope.



******
No bubble photos tonight (thank gawd). Twins went to bed without incident . . .

5 comments:

jillnjosh said...

Are you planning on putting in shoulder pads? Didn't shoulder pads help to get rid of those same wrinkles on the last jacket? They also made the armscyes snugger, as well, from what I can remember. Try putting in shoulder pads, then take the back picture again and those wrinkles might be gone, and then rejudge the armscye ease, too.
Jill (Dungeon minion)

Kat said...

I think the overall design style of the Chanel jacket needs to be considered. It is kind of a boxy style, right? I still think you need darts of some sort *IF* you are looking for a more shapely back. However, perhaps letting out the lower side seams would give you extra ease and that more traditional boxy look of the Chanel style.

Personally, I'd opt for a more flattering fit as opposed to the boxy style and create a side dart in the pattern and transfer it to the shoulder seam. On an existing one that is already cut out? I'd tinker with the side seams by letting them out in the ara I see the draglines down to the hem. This jacket reminds me of McCall's 5007--one of my fave patterns. My figure couldn't handle that full boxy look and adding back darts was a must.

I find it's always a tough call from pictures though. Seconding Jillnjosh's comment about the shoulder pads too.

Anonymous said...

Side view and front look great already. I'm wondering if it's my 'old eyes' or is your right shoulder width of the muslin considerably wider than the other?

JoanneM said...

Muslin looks great Dawn. No shoulder pads. Repeat,no shoulder pads.
Read any of the literature about the Chanel jackets and none have shoulder pads.If you quilt the lining to the fabric I think it will create some further snug......play around with the boucle once you cut-I find muslins are a true test only up to a certain point........

Debbie Cook said...

The wrinkles in the back are because you curve inward at the back waist (what you always call a swayback but isn't really!) and the pattern is meant to be boxy. As Kat commented earlier, If you want to keep the boxiness, let out the sideseams at the bottom hip so it falls straight past your tush. If you want to make it more fitted, add back waist darts or a CB shaped seam. But really, the fit is pretty darn good as it is.