More pondering.
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Wednesday, November 5, 2008
Coat Sew Along - Interfacing
So here's an article from Threads about Armani jackets. They fuse-interface the entire jacket. Is that really what I should be doing???? I have access to nice horse hari canvas here in town so I can buy it whenever. Should the whole thing be interfaced with it? It looks like this shows "body weight" and lighter and heavier than "body weight". What is body weight?? My jacket isn't exactly like this. There isn't a roll line for the body of thecoat, just the collar. The directions for the coat say to interface the entire thing. Hmmmmmmm. I don't want to do the sew-in interfacing. If I did, I see the post on the Coat Sew Along site about where to interface it.
More pondering.
Click and you can see the entire picture.
More pondering.
Click and you can see the entire picture.
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6 comments:
Dawn, of course it depends completely on your fabric, but from what I read on tailoring, is that the front is always completely interfaced, the back and sleeves not necessarily.
What I did for a more tailored jacket this summer was interfacing the top of the sleeves (2 inches wide in the shape of the sleeve) and also all hems in the back and of the sleeve. I used a special fusible interfacing.
I just sewed this coat http://sewing.patternreview.com/cgi-bin/readreview.pl?readreview=1&reviewnum=33499 and I tried something new that worked very well for me. I underlined the whole coat in a fine 100% cotton broadcloth (which acted as the body weight interfacing) then used a light fusible woven to interface the front body (not the whole front), sleeve heads, pockets, undercollar etc. and then used a fusible tailors cavas for the back and shoulder guard, turn of collar in the under collar and the revere. I fused the interfacing to the underlining and not the coat and sandwiched the interfacing between the underlining and the coat before sewing them together. I was amazed at how well it worked ... it was also not excessively time consuming ... just a thought ... smiles.
In my dressmaking class, I sewed a jacket. My sewing instructor hadd me interfaced the whole thing to give it more body. I used an armo-weft interfacing which is fusible. It was a pain to cut all the pieces and fusing it, but I have to say the jacket has more of a RTW look. Hope this helps. cindy
Dawn, I have no specific answer to your question, being just as new to this as you are. Let's just say building the inside of my jacket took far longer than constructing the fashion exterior. And I can't say for certain I did everything correctly, though it looks and feels right. No more coat construction for me for a loooong time.
Sometimes I know what to use, and sometimes I just guess. There are areas I virtually always interface like the upper back, hemline, and front shoulder area to prevent collapsing. The rest depends on the hand of the fabric.
I picked up the current Vogue Pattern magazine at our grocery store in October, specifically because it discussed coat construction, appropriate interfacing/linings/interlinings. I can never get too much info on that. It was more for coats as opposed to jackets, for which I have a heck of a lot of information in my sewing library.
I am using fusibles for my coat in the sew along. I am using a light weft interfacing for the front, side and upper collar, so I laid out those pattern pieces to figure out how much I needed, and block interfaced. This saves lot of time as you only cut out those pieces once. It is much easier to grain up the interfacing to the larger piece of fabric. I will use a different interfacing for the undercollar, and facing. I use a bias piece of fusible for the sleeve cap,cut on the bias and 3" deep. I interface all hems that are not already interfaced. I prefer using a wider piece than is shown in the Armani jacket so that it falls above the hem on so that it is cushioned. I use a pinking shears to cut the edge of any interfacing that falls onto the body of the jacket or coat.
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