I thought I’d share my ITY coverstitch hemming trick with you guys. You know when your coverstitch machine is eating your knit fabric, or when it makes those annoying folds because it is pulling on the fabric? This seems to solve the problem. I cut my Sulky Water Soluble Stabilizer into strips about an inch wide. Then I just feed it under the foot when I’m hemming. It seems to give it enough body that it won’t pull and tug on your poor knit. I use this trick on most of my fine knits.
If you follow Burda’s directions, they have you fold the cowl-neck first and then put on the arms which means you have this weird finish on the edges when they meet the cowl. I tried it another way. First, I finished the raglan-arm pieces and CB with a fold-over strip of self-fabric. Next, I sandwiched the cowl around the side fabric. I made one stitch on each side and voila, the seam is encased in the cowl and no weird seam between the cowl and the raglan-sleeves.
Next up: a one-hour dress beginning to end.