Monday, May 25, 2015

Burda Challenge–Burda 05-2015 #101

First off, can I just say, “Phweeeeeeewwwwwwwwwwww.” This coat took a loooong time.

Big, deep breathe.

Okay, now then. This is my Burda Challenge item for May. I made the frilly ruffle coat (05-2015 #101) because I needed it. Like really, I needed it. It is my precious. No, for real, I’m not a ruffle girl at all. Ever. But I needed this coat when I saw it in Burda. And not just the pattern, the exact coat. I found this Mood fabric is this a match for the original coat. b_0515_101_6


It’s an off-white, pale blue tweed. I interfaced the whole thing. Let me say that again. The. Whole. Thing. That took forever. The tweed was nice, but I needed to be a bit beefier.


Not only is the ginormous collar gathered, but it is pleated along the back. There are six pleats that go across the back. This is what gives it such body.


This is probably more of an “up-do coat” since your hair and collar would be fighting all the time. I made my normal Burda size of 34. I added an inch to the bodice because I have a long torso. The waist seam hits me right where it should. This coat has in-seam pockets and they are large. I love them.


Look at that collar! It’s huge! It’s going to eat my face!!!!! 


I bought this silky lining at JoAnn’s. I think it’s really a great color for this coat.


I used five large sew-in snaps. Instead of hand-sewing them, I put them on by machine. My Necchi was juuuuust wide enough if I was very careful. I used Gutterman upholstery thread for these snaps and the understitching.


Looking back, I wish I would have made this in a rich turquoise. My skin usually looks better with dark jewel tones.


I know you can’t see it well, but there is a back V at center back at the bottom. I totally nailed the V.


Isn’t the tweed pretty? It reminds me of Easter.


Burda tells you to put the collar and coat together and then topstitch it. Don’t. I did that and it looked crappy. Instead, do the normal clipping, grading, and understitching that you would normally do.


Here’s the snaps from the right side. I think the starburst pattern looks cool.


Look at the collar. It’s about the stand up and walk away.


I added 1/2” shoulder pads to help support the weight of the collar and coat.


Frilly, ruffle sleeves.  Don’t you love them???


Do you love it???? I think I do!!! Which is good because it took me hours to make. Aren’t those the best things though?

I’m going to make some very not-hard things in the coming days. Phew.

Thursday, May 14, 2015

Burda 05-2015 #101 Ruffle Coat Update

I figured you guys would want an update on The Coat. The tweed is beautiful, but not sturdy enough for all this detail. I went ahead and interfaced the entire thing. SO. MUCH. INTERFACING. Wow. I spent one whole night cutting, one whole night interfacing, and one whole night wrestling with the ruffle. It’s been slow, but fun, going.


I found the perfect silky print for the lining.


It turns out you do need the full 3 5/8 yards to make this coat. I had originally bought three yards when I first saw this coat. Now, I’m just waiting on the rest of the fabric to come from Mood. I have completed the lining (I did that first) and done the top of the coat. I still need to do a bunch of clipping, grading, and understitching on the collar. In this picture, things are not lined up where they should be.


Look at that collar. I can’t help thinking that this is going to be amazing, or clownish. I hope I find it amazing when I’m all done. It’s definitely going to be a statement piece.


You can tell here that it’s pulling in all kinds of crazy ways. I really need to clip, grade, and understitch. The weight of the immense collar is pulling the facing and lining out of the coat from the neck. I still need to figure out the shoulder pads.


I’m totally copying Burda’s coat. Hopefully mine turns out as well.

Thursday, May 7, 2015

Burda 5/2015 #101 Ruffle Coat

I was smitten by this coat the first time I saw it in the May BurdaStyle. I’ve started on it. I even did a muslin of the top of the coat (which I NEVER do!). It looks good so far. Tomorrow I’m going to start cutting into my scrumptious fabric. (Ruffles on the wrist, I’m in love!! And I don’t even like ruffles. Something is wrong with me!)


Here’s the line drawing. The buttons are only for looks. There are five sew-in buttons that hook it together.


I may have liked it enough that I bought fabric that is almost exactly the same as the Burda garment. This from Mood Fabrics and it’s to. die. for. OMG. It is slightly more green in real life (although your monitor probably does not look like mine.


Questions for you jacket makers.

  • The giant ruffle collar calls for “fine tulle” to be placed between the two layers. I assume this is to help it be a bit stiffer so the collar doesn’t collapse. The only kind I’ve ever seen is the floppy stuff at JoAnn’s. Would that work? Could I just interface it instead? I’ve never seen something call for tulle for support.
  • Can I make my own shoulder pads? I don’t want some giant monstrosities. Where should I look for information on that?


Actually, no. I will cut into my lining fabric tomorrow. I always do the lining before the jacket. I learned that from Anne.

Saturday, May 2, 2015

Jalie 3247 - Crop Top Hack

Today I realized I don’t have many cute, easy sporty tops that I can wear without a sports bra. My kids and I have been doing a lot of races recently (3k, 5k, etc.) and I’m often screaming cheering them on from the side lines. No one would ever call me competitive, *cough, cough*. Anyway, sometimes, I have to add an extra “helpful hand” by running the last mile or so with them to “motivate” them. Again, *cough, cough*. (It’s totally legal, these are just fun runs and not for times or anything.) I usually wear running clothing to these events because I do end up in the chute sometimes and run for very short periods of time.  Today I decided I need some more tops for these occasions. Enter Jalie 3247. I’ve made the bottoms before and turned them into a swimsuit.

Today I turned the crop top into this. Underneath is a sports bra. I couldn’t run a marathon with it, but it does nicely for these little short distances.

It covers well in all the right places and the back straps are really comfortable.

Aren’t they colorful? These are leftover scraps from this FunkiFabrics lycra.

Do you see I just happened to have (from NCSM) black sparkle FOE??

Basically I just made a regular and long version of Jalie 3247 and put them together as one. The only really difference is that the band on the bottom of the shelf-bra is not rolled up in the fabric, and is instead just sewn on. I didn’t want a roll of fabric and elastic to show through my outer fabric. Also I wanted to minimize any seams against my skin.

Don’t mind my “octopus legs”. I was keeping them long until I decided how long to make the straps. Since these pictures, I’ve snipped off the extra length.

Here’s how I did it in a nutshell. I cut a short and long front and back. I lengthened the front and back by looking at Jalie 2805 and just eyeballing it.

I put the short version inside and treated them as one when I applied the FOE.

Then you just follow the Jalie directions. Make the ties, fold over the straps to make a casing for the straps to go through, attach the straps to the back of the top. Like I said the only thing I did differently is to attach the red band (bottom of the shelf bra) directly to the lining fabric.

Ta da!!! Do you love it? I love it. I can see many more of these in the future!!!