Wednesday, January 7, 2009

Burda 11-2008-119 Muslin for Jacket

So, here's the muslin. I added some details to this first picture so you can see some of the design features. The collar and front flap are highlighted in solid red. The CF and waist is the dotted red line. The white lines are the cuffs and waistband that I didn't add. I was mostly checking the bodice/bust fit. This is the size 17 from the November BWOF. It's a petite pattern. The only adjustment I have done is the swayback adjustment of about 1cm. I usually do a shoulder to bust tuck of about 1/2" but I didn't feel like I needed to because of the petite sizing.

The waist marking is at my natural waist. The shoulders feel good. It is good range of movement for being a non-stretch woven.

I do have slight wrinkling at the bust. The waist can go in just a bit but I don't want it too fitted.

The back shoulder area looks pretty good. The bottom part is sticking to my t-shirt. This makes me wonder whether this top should really be unlined. This is supposed to be unlined with facings covering the seam allowances.

Front again. The pins are running through both CFs. I was very careful about how I pinned it.

Issues and Questions:
  1. Should it really be unlined? I was planning on doing this with the left over purple melton wool from my coat. I'm not sure how to face the front flap along the edges. The zipper will be at the long edge but the top will have to be faced. If I line it, it will be with a thin decorative lining.
  2. Do you think I need any other adjustments/alterations? I think it looks pretty good for being pretty unaltered. Although it is hard to tell with the sticky t-shirt under it.

Oh, and I have some exciting news to share!!! Those of you on Facebook already know . . . I have the best husband in the world. I'll let you in on the surprise once I get a bit more information. :)


Gorgeous Things said...

I'm a fan of lined jackets for the reasons you point out. What fabric are you going to make it from?

Regards the bust wrinkles, it looks like you might need to lower the bust point a bit. Notice the wrinkles above the bust line. That tells me the fullness of the pattern isn't hitting at the same place as the fullness of you. Ask me how I know about that!

CraftRage said...

The shape of that jacket is really flattering! I particularly love the stand-up collar.

On the lining issue, maybe it's just the timing, because right now I'm wearing a medium-weight poplin kind of jacket thingy over a t-shirt, and they keep sticking together and making me look really lumpy, so I vote for lining, if you have the patience.

Meg said...

I can tell this is going to be really cute on you. I'll have to go to Facebook to see what you're hinting at...

Cennetta said...

I really like the style of this jacket. I also prefer line my jacket. I feel better and adds some body to clothing.

Anonymous said...

Love your blog. Because of you I am inspired to make the Burda 8022 jacket.

Definately line. Its so much easier getting jackets on/off when they are. Also, the back where its catching a bit, maybe a tiny swayback adjustment?