Monday, June 8, 2009

Couture Jacket Class -- 3

So we have done lots of things in my Couture Jacket class but the pace is exceedingly slooooow. Here's a brief run-down on all the little things we have done so far.
  1. Did a tissue fitting. I talked about it in this post. We decided to take out a 1/2" for the shoulder to bust region and add an inch in the back for my forward-thrusting neck.
  2. We found all the stitching lines on the tissue paper and added 1" seam allowances to the edges. Those who though they might need to add more, added 1.5" or 2" seam allowances just to be sure.
  3. We traced everything out on muslin. That's everything; all notches, grainlines, circles, bust points, waist markings, stitching line, everything.
  4. We then put our muslin pieces together.
  5. We did a muslin fitting. The fitting is really my favorite part. I sort of know how stuff should fit but how exactly does a sleeve and bodice fit together? Should the seam be over that pointy bone? Over the edge of the shoulder? In between the two? I'll get back to you on that.
  6. After the fitting you re-mark anything that she pinned. Luckily for me, she didn't make any adjustments to my muslin. We will take in the final garment quite a bit in the waist and shoulders but, for now, we are not going to change anything on the muslin.
  7. Take apart your muslin and use that for the final pattern when you cut out your fashion fabric. You do this because most of the time you have an asymmetrical shape and you need more room on one side than the other.
  8. Prepare your wool and put it on grain. I pulled a thread and cut apart my wool because I have four yards of it. I only need 1.5 yards for the jacket. I sewed the wool together like in this post to make sure it was on grain.
Here are some shots of my muslin. Excuse the wrinkles. I rolled it up and stuck it in my bag and it's been sitting there for a week.

We only made one arm out of muslin. We only attached it the bottom of the armhole. That's the part you don't want to mess with. The upper part of the sleeves can be taken in or let out as needed.

Here's the inside of the jacket without all the markings. She had us sew on the grainline so that she could see it from both sides of the jacket.

Here's my final muslin all put together. This will become my pattern.

1 comment:

gwensews said...

You are learning a lot. You'll never make another jacket without checking all the fit points. Just wait until you get to the tailoring!