Wednesday, May 13, 2009

Patrones Oct 2005 #28 Muslin

Here's muslin take one of the Patrones pattern. I traced this off for a size 38. I have no experience with Patrones so I thought I'd make a muslin (or two or three). It's three main pieces for the body: front, side front, and back. The back has a center back seam. I didn't do any of my usual adjustments because I wanted to see how this would fit straight outta the box.

This is pinned at CF. I added another pin to keep the flap from sticking up. I know I'll need to take in the waist (or wasit, damn spelling) and let out the hip. The bust point seems to be hitting at about the right spot which is surprising. I usually have to do a 1/2" tuck to shorten the shoulder to bust length on BWOF patterns. It's snug across the bust but I think that's more of a back issue.

Here you can see that it is tight across the shoulders. I think this is why it's pulling just the teensiest bit at the bust. I certainly need that swayback tuck. A lot. I also need to let the hips out a little bit too.

Here's that forward thrusting neck thing I was talking about on my other post. That blue side seam should be perpendicular to the floor right? How do I get it there? I know I need to add a bit of hip room to the front and side front. That will let it have more room. I also think that bunching fabric in the back is actually pushing it forward too. The swayback adjustment may also fix some of that.

I have quite a bit of room at the waist. Also the seam line of the shoulders is right on the pointy shoulder bone. That is were it is supposed to be right? I think that is what our instructor told us last time. I am going to bring this Patrones jacket in on Sunday and see if she'll also help with fitting this jacket.

I have to run up to Fairbanks for a few days for a family emergency. If I don't respond to email, that's why. I'll be back Saturday night but I probably won't be on email or the computer until Sunday or Monday. I'm really hoping to finish this mini-wardrobe but all this family stuff just suddenly cropped up. I guess we'll see what happens. Until then, happy sewing!


Anonymous said...

Have you ever tried an erect back adjustment? It's basically the same as a sway back adjustment but done about midway up the back armhole. This reduces the centre back length and makes the back shoulder slope squarer. I find I have to do this adjustment quite alot and often reduces the need for a sway back adjustment. Also as you are planning to add some extra width into the hip area, this may help the back hem to lay flatter and eliminate the need for a sway back adjustment completely.

Nancy K said...

I am more inclined to think you need a sway back adjustment. But, You shouldn't do all at once, but adjust the shoulders first. I agree with your instructor that you have a forward neck which is going to throw off other things. If you adjust for the neck, the bust line is going to drop, so you may need to raise it after all. You also need to add the sleeves, both of them, to figure out how much you need in the back. Is your waist in the right place? This will cause some of the issues with the hip, which I am not sure you need to add to if everything lines up correctly.

Bunny said...

I agree with Nancy. If everything else is adjusted I think the hips will fall right into place. Enjoying following your class. Hope the family deal works out soon.

Rose said...

You look taller than I am, but I have many of the same fit issues. Your back looks a lot like mine, but not quite so severe. I'm not able to get away without a sway back adjustment so I think that you are going to need one regardless. I will be interested in the ajustments that you make. Thanks for sharing. Hope everything settles down with the family emergency.

angie.a said...

I can't believe you've made another pair of jeans while I've been watching old movies on tv. :D I have no sewing mojo. Rats.

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